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#QuiltLikeABoss – Piecing

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Welcome to the next post in the #QuiltLikeABoss series! After the last post by Sarah on cutting, today we will be talking about piecing. The vast majority of quilt designs will require you to piece your fabric, with the main exception being paper-piecing that Abby will talk about in a future post for the series.

The standard seam allowance for quilting is a quarter inch. There are some times where this is super super important and other times where this specific measurement is less important, which I will discuss below. I will also provide some tips for achieving an accurate 1/4″ seam allowance and for checking if your seam allowance is right.

The (Un)Importance of a 1/4″ Seam Allowance

As I mentioned, some quilt designs it is imperative that you sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. If your design has pieces of different shapes or sizes, if you don’t sew an accurate seam allowance the pieces won’t fit together properly and you won’t be able to make the seams match and/or the quilt top sit flat.

However, for some designs the 1/4″ isn’t quite as important, consistency is more important. For example strip quilts or quilts made from squares all the same size, as long as you sew a consistent sized seam allowance it technically doesn’t matter what size the seam allowance is. HOWEVER be warned, if you use a different seam allowance in these cases your quilt will turn out a different size so you need to account for that (bigger seam allowances = smaller quilt).

Having said that though, I still recommend aiming for the 1/4″ seam allowance even if it doesn’t matter for your design as it’s good practice for any future projects you may make that do require the precise 1/4″.

What is a Scant 1/4″

If you’re reading information about piecing quilts you may come across the phrase a “scant 1/4 inch”. What this means is that your 1/4″ should be a tiny bit smaller than a 1/4″, so that when you account for the thread and the thickness of the fabric the finished pieces are exactly 1/4″ smaller than the cut pieces. I have drawn up this diagram to try and explain this:

Scant quarter inch diagram

So, when anything says to use a 1/4″ seam allowance, it’s best to use a scant 1/4″ for the best accuracy.

Tips for sewing a 1/4″ seam allowance

Before you start your actual quilt you should check your seam allowance. Even though I’ve made plenty of quilts I always do this at the beginning of a project just to double check.

First,  get your machine set up with it’s 1/4″ foot (or if you don’t have one, try this method with a few feet to work out which is the best one to use). 1/4″ feet are designed for you to either line up your fabric with the edge of the foot, or to butt it up against the guide (the black metal in the below picture). If you don’t have a 1/4″ foot here are some alternatives to help you with the accurate seam allowance.


Then grab a piece of paper or thin card and un-thread the needle of your machine. On this piece of paper, grab a ruler (I have a great 1×12″ ruler that I use for this, but any imperial ruler will work) and carefully mark a (thin) line 1/4″ from the edge of the sheet with a mechanical pencil (or a fine pen would work).


Then put the piece of paper in the machine as if it were fabric, lining up the needle with the right hand edge of the line (so it’s just to the seam allowance side of the line). Check where this lines up with the foot and take a mental note. Then carefully sew along the line; as there is no thread in the machine it will just make a line of holes in the paper.

Next, remove the paper from the machine and examine where your holes are in relation to your drawn line, and also re-measure the distance from the middle of the holes to the edge of the paper; it should be 1/4″ or a tiny bit less (remember the paper side of the line is the 1/4″). If it’s not, repeat the process until you’re happy.


Tip: If the 1/4″ seam allowance isn’t quite right when using your foot as a guide, you may be able to move your needle slightly to account for it, as it’s easier to use the foot/guide if possible. This is what I do with my Janome in Australia, if I use the black guide with the 1/4″ foot I have my seam allowance is a little large, so I move the needle a tiny bit over to the right to account for this.

Once you’re happy with your measurement I suggest checking it without the drawn line; pick another side of the paper and sew another line of holes, this time without drawing the line first, and measure it. If the measurement is still accurate then you’re ready to move onto sewing fabric!


This may seem a lot of effort and you might want to skip it and get sewing right away, but it’s worth the few minutes now rather than messing up your quilt top because your seam allowances weren’t right.

Methods to check your accuracy

There are some pretty quick methods for checking the accuracy of your seam allowance using your fabric. I recommend spending a few minutes completing one of these exercises to get the feel of the seam allowance and check your accuracy before starting your quilt top. This tutorial by Pat Sloan takes you through the process well.

One Last Note on Quilt Piecing

The only other thing I want to note is about backstitching; generally you don’t backstitch at the beginning and end of your seams when making a quilt, as all the ends will be enclosed by another seam, either within the quilt top, or the binding.

As always, any questions please ask away in the comments!


Click here to go to the #QuiltLikeABoss page for links to all the posts in the QuiltAlong and other information!

#QuiltLikeABoss – Cutting

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Hi everyone! It’s Sarah from Sewsquirrel here with the next post for the #QuiltLikeABoss series. Today I’m going to walk you through cutting out fabric.  Pfffft I hear you say.  I can make clothes!  Who needs to learn how to cut out straight lines? You do. For reals. It’s not hard to do right, but it’s easy to screw up.  (Ask me how I know that… I’m a big learner by making mistakes).  We will quickly go over the basics, then get to the chopping up.

Where appropriate, I’m going to send you in the direction of some fab tutorials, as I’m am not a wheel re-inventer, and we’re talking about straight lines.

The first thing to note is rotary cutters are VERY sharp. Which is why the first topic is safety.  I assume here that you, like myself, like having fingers.  If you have children, you may want them to also retain said fingers.

Also – want to see my cutting out qualifications?

Total cutting nerd :/ I think I want a kitchen magnetic strip to stick them on the wall

A photo posted by Sarah (@sewsquirrel) on


Rule 1.  If you have children, explain that yes, this does look like a pizza cutter, but it is not.  It is much sharper, and will chop off their fingers if they ever touch it.  And if you ever see them use it, you will ….[insert their worst punishment used for running out on the road et al.]…Then put it up high.

Rule 2.  Don’t drink and cut.  Or at least don’t drink too much and cut.

Rule 3.  Everytime you put down your rotary cutter, slide the cover back.  Some are designed so that if you aren’t cutting, the blade is covered.  A bit like how the safety catch on a chainsaw works.  If you’re doesn’t have that, just get in the habit of sliding the blade back.  It really does become a habit quite quickly. Remember, everytime.

Rule 4.  This is like peeling potatoes.  Cut away from you.

Rule 5.  Try and use a ruler for cutting straight lines.  This is only for mental health safety, as you will get wonky lines.  Feel free to disagree with me, I’ll be right here to say “I told you so”

Rule 6.  Dispose of your blades safely.  (For that matter, pins, needles etc.  I have an old formula tin which I store all ‘sharps”.  Then I can seal it, write all over it (SHARPS IN HERE) and then, dispose of it.

Buying a ruler

If you are making a quilt in inches, buy a ruler with inches.  If you are going metric, buy a ruler in metric.  It will make your life so much easier.  Linked example here.

You can get all different sizes, but really, think about what size you are cutting out and choose something that will do *most* of your block sizes.  For example, if you have to cut out a billion 12″ strips, a 10″ ruler might not be for you.  Personally, the ruler I use the most (out of 3) is this size  6.5″ x 12.5″

If you are want to use your shiny new rotary cutter for garment sewing, you need to use pattern weights.  I tend to use 400g tins of 4 bean mix, or on small pattern pieces, cans of tuna.  This picture below is tuna v silk georgette.

All tuna on call for basting duty tonight

A photo posted by Sarah (@sewsquirrel) on

Rotary Cutters

Invest in a good rotary cutter.  Just like good scissors, you will LOVE this baby.  Like many a garment seamstress before you, you will wonder how you ever cut out dress fabric with scissors before.  How primitive 😛  The clover brand is great, and I’ve used no name rotary cutter blades in there to great effect.

Top Tips

  • Change blades often.  The moment it starts to drag a little bit on the fabric, change that blade.
  • Buy a 45mm rotary cutter.  Any smaller is for very precise tiny pieces or curves.  If you are cutting long lengths, then it will do your head in to use a small cutter, and you’ll go through a lot more blades.

I still have my first not so great rotary cutter fitted out with dull blades, which I use just for cutting out paper patterns.

Think Before You Cut

Like all sewing, you need to cut on grain, whether that is the straight-grain or the cross-grain.  Which way you will be cutting will depend on print placements, or how big your fabric is compared to the pieces you have to cut.  It actually doesn’t matter.  As all the pieces are small, there is negligible difference between the straight grain and the cross-grain, and quilting fabric doesn’t have stretch or drape to worry about.  EASY.

First of all, plan out the most efficient way to get the pieces out of the fabric.  For me, I was cutting out from each fat quarter, the following pieces.  (Here is my chosen design)

  • 12 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
  • 12 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
  • 12 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
  • 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
  • 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
  • 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″

Easiest is to cut in strips, and then cut down.  In the picture below – you can see how it fit together as a fat quarter.

Fat quarter cut out

Now I’ve marked up the same image showing where I’ve cut, and in what order.


Once I cut out all 6 pieces, from 12 different fat quarters, I ended up with a mix of pieces, which I then assembled into 12 “blocks” ready to be sewn together.


Cutting Technique

  • Before you start cutting, make sure you square up your fabric;  see here for a tutorial
  • Now carefully measure your pieces with the ruler and cut: for a photo tutorial of the physical process of cutting see here, for a video demonstration see lesson 4 of this free Craftsy class
  • Apply even pressure.  It doesn’t have to be much, just even.
  • Do not cut in the same place repeatedly on your mat.  It does not heal.
  • While most mats are marked with measurements, they’re not always accurate, so check yours before relying on it, and choose to use either your ruler or mat for measurements, not a combination (I recommend the ruler).
  • Avoid cutting too many layers at once. The layers can slip around and it quickly gets off grain/print.
  • Use a post it to mark your measurement on your ruler.  All those tiny lines get confusing.  
  • Be careful that your measurement is correct; don’t cut your block too small by accident!

Do you have any questions?  Ask away!

All cut out

Click here to go to the #QuiltLikeABoss page for links to all the posts in the QuiltAlong and other information!

#QuiltLikeABoss – Are You Ready?

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So? Are you ready to get started on your quilt? Have you chosen your design? I know I’m ready and excited.

Before we get going with beginning the cutting and piecing, I thought I’d just do a quick post to check that we’re ready to start…


As with any kind of sewing it’s generally recommended to pre-wash your fabric before using it. The reasons are the same as with garment sewing; to pre-shrink the fabric, and to wash out any dye that might run from the finished garment. This latter reason is particularly important in a quilt where you might have very different coloured fabrics, the last thing you want is for the colours to bleed the first time you wash your finished quilt and ruin your hard work. So, before you begin, stick all your fabrics (like colours together) through the washing machine.


Sometimes the fabrics will fray in the wash, leaving you with a big tangle of threads to deal with when the wash cycle is over. I’ve found that how much fraying you get depends on the fabric, the cut and the type of washing machine; some projects the fabrics have come out just fine, and others they’ve come out a massive tangled ball. A tip from Sarah is to pink the raw edges of the fabric, which will prevent this fraying happening.

What about pre-cuts? Pre-cuts (such as layer cakes, charm squares and jelly rolls) are a little trickier to wash as you don’t want to lose the size of the fabric. I’ll confess, the one project that I’ve made with pre-cuts I didn’t pre-wash them. But I also haven’t had the guts to wash that quilt yet… The fabric companies say that you don’t need to pre-wash the fabric, but if you don’t want to run the risk, wash them; Sarah assures me that she washes precuts in the machine with great success. If you’re still concerned, try one first to see how it goes in your machine, or wash the fabric by hand.

Lastly, I’ve found that solid fabrics tend to bleed more colour than patterned ones, so if you’re using solid fabrics personally I double recommend pre-washing.

Have you got everything?

Ok, and one last thing before we begin; have you taken stock to check you have everything you need?

We discussed some of the tools required already; hopefully you’ve got your cutting mat, rotary cutter and ruler as you’ll need that for the next post on cutting.

If you’ve got your fabric, have you got a list of the pieces you need for your quilt? You should double check that you know this and you have enough fabric before you start cutting.

You’ll also want some thread; traditionally quilts are made with cotton thread (and cotton fabric). This is different from the polyester all-purpose thread used for garment sewing. My understanding of the reasoning behind this is that you don’t want thread that’s stronger than your fabric, as then over time the fabric will tear rather than the thread (and it’s easier to restitch a broken seam than replace fabric with a hole). Polyester thread is stronger than cotton fabric, which is why you are traditionally recommended to use cotton thread with the cotton fabric. However, I’m not a thread purist, and I don’t think it’s going to be the end of the world if you use your polyester thread to make your quilt. However, be aware that you can use a very hot iron on cotton fabric, but that heat can melt the polyester thread (a lesson I learnt the hard way as a teenager when I was learning to quilt).

Colour wise, the thread you use for your piecing shouldn’t be visible at all in the finished quilt so the colour isn’t too important. I recommend using a pale neutral colour, such as white, beige or light grey. Just make sure you don’t use a dark coloured thread with pale fabrics and you should be fine.
(Note: This advice is for the thread for piecing your quilt. For quilting and binding the thread will be visible so the colour is important).

Lastly, put a fresh needle in your sewing machine. A universal or sharp needle in a size 70 or 80 should be fine and is what I usually use.

Ok! And now we should be ready! As always, any questions please let us know in the comments, and if you’ve selected your design or fabrics please share them with us on instagram with the hashtag #QuiltLikeABoss. We will be back soon with some information about cutting!


Click here to go to the #QuiltLikeABoss page for links to all the posts in the QuiltAlong and other information!



#QuiltLikeABoss – How Much Fabric

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Once you’ve chosen your design you need to work out how much fabric you will need (or if you already have the fabric, check that you have enough). In her chosen design post, Sarah discussed her calculations for determining whether she had enough of her fabric for her, so if you haven’t already I highly recommend heading over there and reading that information. Remember, you can always catch up on the #QuiltLikeABoss posts by checking the list of posts on this page.

If you’ve chosen your design and still need to buy fabric, now you need to know how much of the fabrics to buy. If you’re using a pattern to make your quilt then this has already been done for you, as the pattern should have fabric requirements included, so you can just follow that information. However, if you’re making your own design or making changes, you’ll need to know how to estimate the fabric requirements so that you can buy an appropriate amount of fabric.

The approach I use is as follows and can be used for any quilt design:

  1. Draw a schematic of the quilt and identify the main components and the different fabrics
  2. Add dimensions to the schematic to show the size of each of the components
  3. Use this to estimate the number and size of the pieces for each fabric (or group of fabrics) in the quilt
  4. Use the number and size of pieces to estimate how much fabric you need.

Once I have my estimate, I always round up a little to account for any issues with the cutting (eg if the store don’t quite cut it straight), shrinkage, and any mistakes I make.

I thought the easiest way to explain this would be to share an example based on one of my planned quilts:

(A quick note on measurements; quilting is generally done in inches, however I struggle to visualise the size of things over around 12″, and tend to use metric instead. There is therefore a mixture of both units below, but I will try and include a conversion to inches for all my metric measurements, but the smaller measurements will stay only in inches as the quilt will be cut and constructed in inches)

Quilt 1 – Japanese Inspired Coin Quilt

First I noted about how large I want the quilt to be, which is around 1×1.3m (approx 40×55″). Next I looked at my fabrics and decided how wide I wanted my stacks to be; I decided on a finished width of 6″ (which is the approximate width they are folded to in the image below). Next I needed to decide how wide I want the sashing between the stacks to be; after laying out my fabric at a few widths I decided that I liked the look of 1.5″, which is what’s shown in the photo below (while this was easier with my cut fabric, I’ve been known to do similar things with bolts of fabric in stores before).


From here I can do a little maths; with stacks 6″ wide, and sashing 1.5″ wide, my quilt would be 1.5 + (6.5+1.5)*#stacks in width. Using these numbers I calculated that 5 stacks would make the quilt 39″ wide, which is pretty close to my 40″ goal.

If the numbers hadn’t been so close, options to adjust the width could have been to change the width of the stack, the width of the sashing, or making the sashing around the outside wider.

From here I drew a simple schematic of this layout and added the basic dimensions:


Using this schematic I counted up the pieces required for the two main components of the quilt top; the sashing and the stacks.

For the sashing I require strips that will finish at 1.5″; as you stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance, you add 0.5″ to all measurements to work out the size piece to cut, so for 1.5″ sashing I will cut 2″ strips. I will need 6 strips the length of the stacks (55-1.5-1.5 = 52″ long), and then two strips for either end (39″ long). Adding this all up, I will need 416″ of 2″ strips (52*6 + 39*2). I will cut these strips along the crosswise grain (from selvedge to selvedge) and I know that quilting fabric is 42-44″ wide, so I need to calculate how many strips I need to get 416″ (416 / 42 = 9.9) – I’m going to need 10 strips, although to allow for any problems and any length used up by piecing the strips to make them the required 52″ I round up to 11 strips. Each strip is 2″ wide so I will need 22″ of fabric for the sashing (which is around 56cm).

TIP: Always buy a little more fabric than you think you’ll need, especially if you’re cutting long strips or large pieces, as sometimes the fabric is cut wonky and you want to make sure you have enough.

For the stacks I will be using an assortment of fabric, but I can estimate the total amount of fabric required and then divide by the number of fabrics. Each stack is 6″ wide (6.5″ including seam allowance) and 52″ tall. Each seam in the stack will require an extra 0.5″ of fabric. I don’t currently know how many pieces I will have in each stack, so I need to estimate. Since I’d rather over-estimate than under-estimate I’ll pick a high-ish number, and say that I will have an average of 15 pieces in each stack (52/15=3.46, I know I will want many of the coins to be larger than this so this is a reasonable overestimate), so that means adding 15 x 0.5″ = 7.5″ to the length required of each stack, let’s round up and call it 60″ per stack. 60″ x 5 stacks is a total of 300″ long. Similar to the sashing, I can work out how many strips I would need to cut from the fabric to get this much fabric – 300/42 = 7.14 – so I’ll need 8 strips that are 6.5″ wide, so a total of 52″ worth of fabric. However, as my stacks will be made from a few fabrics, this is the total amount needed for all the fabrics; I can divide this by the number of fabrics I have to get an estimate for each (assuming I use them all equally). In my case I have 6 fabrics for my stacks, so 52/6 = 8.6. Again, I should round up, but I recon about 9-12″ (25-30cm) of each fabric should be enough. (This maths is assuming that I will use approximately equal quantities of each fabric, I may choose to use more of my ‘feature’ fabric, and if I were buying the fabric now I would buy extra of the feature fabric).

Since I’ve already bought my fabrics, now I should check if I have enough; thankfully I have at least a 1/4 metre of each fabric for the stacks, and a metre of the fabric for the sashing, so I’m all good!


Backing and Binding

I have not discussed the fabric requirements for the backing and binding. We will discuss these topics in detail later in the QuiltAlong. I tend to make my quilt top and then select my backing and binding. I do this because I find it easier to select the backing and binding fabrics once the quilt top is pieced, but it also means that if I change my mind with the design I’m not locked into a particular quilt size.

However, you may wish to buy everything at once (which might make sense if you’re buying online for example), so I thought I’d mention it briefly here now just incase.

Your backing will need to be around 2-4″ wider all around than your quilt top. This is why I like to make baby quilts about 40″ (1m) wide, as this allows me to use one width of fabric for the backing and just buy a little longer than the planned length. If your quilt top is wider than this you will need to piece your back (although a pieced back can look great, see here and here for two examples where I have pieced the back). If your width suggests you might want to piece your back then I suggest buying extra of your quilt top fabrics so that you use at least some of the same fabrics.

You need to have enough binding fabric to go all the way around your quilt, plus about 6-12″ extra buffer. While the maths is very similar to the maths above, to save time I tend to use the Quilt Calc App to work out how much fabric to buy for bindings, entering the dimensions and 2.5″ width for the strips, and using the ‘regular’ binding information (not bias). You can also purchase pre-made bias binding rather than buying fabric and making your own.


So is all of that clear? Any questions or issues estimating your fabric please shout out, I’m keen to help if need be. I’d also love to hear how you’re going, have you picked out your design and fabrics?


Click here to go to the #QuiltLikeABoss page for links to all the posts in the QuiltAlong and other information!

#QuiltLikeABoss – My Chosen Designs

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How are you liking the #QuiltLikeABoss series so far? Are you inspired and planning to make a quilt? I hope that you are and am looking forward to hearing what you’ve got planned. Today the three of us are sharing the designs we have chosen to proceed with for the QuiltAlong. Remember to also check out Sarah and Abby’s chosen designs too.

I currently have plans for three quilts for the QuiltAlong. Before I talk about the specific designs, I thought I’d talk a little more about my decision making process. The way we have discussed it as part of the QuiltAlong we had to choose a linear process, and (somewhat arbitrarily) chose to talk about designs first, and then fabrics. However, an equally valid process is to first choose fabrics you love and then choose a design that will work with those fabrics; this is actually the order of things with two of the quilt’s I’m planning. I had in my head plenty of different options for quilts, but I chose a combination of fabrics first, and then selected which quilt design I thought would work best with those particular fabrics. Whereas the third quilt I chose the design first and then chose the fabrics to fit. Either order is perfectly fine, whichever way around inspires you the most.

Quilt 1 – Strip/Coin Quilt

This quilt is built around my instant love for the fabric on the left below. After selecting some coordinates I knew that I wanted to choose a fairly simple design that would let the fabrics shine, with a variety of sizes of pieces since the fabrics have a variety of sizes of prints. I also wanted to give the quilt a bit of a japanese feel, as this is what comes to mind when I look at the fabrics.

(Because I didn’t know what design I would be using when I bought the fabrics I bought 0.75m of the feature print (because I absolutely love it), 0.5m each of the top two prints on the right, fat quarters of the three textured prints (a fat quarter is the equivalent of 0.25m, but cut as 0.5m at half the fabric width, which is a little over 0.5m, so it’s more square shaped rather than a long thin rectangle), and 1m of the solid grey. I am expecting this to be waaaay more than I need for the size quilt I’m making; I’ll be talking about estimating fabric amounts in the next post)


After browsing through my pinterest boards for ideas of a design I thought would fit these fabrics, and I have settled on a design with the primary inspiration of this coin quilt, a free pattern called Woodsy Winter.

And here are some other quilts that have a similar feel to what I’m hoping to achieve

[Click on images for source]

I will be using the dark grey solid for the sashing, with varying sized ‘coins’ with the different fabrics.

As part of the quiltalong I will be sharing my process for deciding how large to make the components of the quilt (which can be applied to any size and many designs), and some tips for the piecing of the quilt top.


Quilt 2 – Equilateral Triangles

Again, this design was chosen after choosing the fabrics. The impetus for this quilt was this seriously cool chameleon fabric. I then picked out a variety of other fabrics in colours that coordinated with the colours in the chameleons.

(Again, I hadn’t chosen my design when I bought these fabrics, so I bought 0.5m of the chameleon fabric and the multi coloured spot on the bottom right because I love them both, and then the minimum cut of the other fabrics, which was 0.3m).IMG_7199 I knew I wanted a design with moderate complexity in the piecing, that would let the awesome fabrics shine (in particular the ‘feature’ chameleon fabric), but since the fabrics are very busy overall, wouldn’t be too overwhelming. Lots of the designs I considered would have required adding a neutral solid for sashing, which could look awesome, but that’s not the look I’m going for with this quilt.

In the end I have decided to go with a design based on equilateral triangles of the fabrics. I really like the different sized triangles in the below right quilt, which I will be taking inspiration from, although not quite as extreme as the large triangles in that quilt.

[Click on images for source]

Here’s a sketch of the kind of design I’m imagining; I printed out some triangular graph paper from here.


As part of the QuiltAlong I will discuss some tips for cutting the triangles, some tips for piecing the triangles to ensure that I don’t lose the points, and some tips for selecting a seemingly ‘random’ layout.


Quilt 3 – Sampler Quilt

I’ve wanted to make a sampler quilt for a while now, so I am taking this opportunity to make a small sampler quilt. As my quilt will be baby quilt sized I will be making 6 different blocks in my sampler quilt. I’m still in the process of deciding which blocks to include in my quilt, there are so many options to choose from, see some of them on this /Pinterest board. I was hoping to have my block selection picked out to show you for this post, but I haven’t made those decisions yet unfortunately. However, I do know that my blocks will be 12″ square (which is a fairly standard block size), and I will include sashing between and around the blocks (likely 2″ wide), and a border around the whole quilt (likely 4″ wide). I still need to buy the fabrics for this quilt. I may use the leftover orange fabrics from this quilt top, with some other fabrics added in.

As part of the quilt along I will discuss my considerations when selecting the blocks for my quilt, and provide tips related to the construction of the blocks that I choose.


What about you?

So that’s my plans make sure you go and read about Sarah’s plans here, and Abby’s plans here. We’d love to hear what you’re planning, so please share in the comments below!


I’ll be back in a couple of days with some information and techniques for estimating fabric requirements for your chosen design, and then after that we will be getting into the nitty gritty of actually making a quilt! We will start with general tips for preparation, cutting, and piecing and will then provide some more specific information related to the quilts that we are making.

Click here to go to the #QuiltLikeABoss page for links to all the posts in the QuiltAlong and other information!